Groningen Walking Guide

There is something wonderfully romantic about reaching a city slowly. Not by plane — but by train, by ferry, by the rhythm of wheels on track and salt air on deck.
I travelled from London to Harwich, crossed the North Sea, and then went by Dutch rail northwards into the province of Groningen — that long, flat, big-skied stretch of the Netherlands where bicycles outnumber cars and history hides in plain sight.
First Arriving as a 17-year-old, and staying with English expats who knew the city well, I originally experienced Groningen not as a tourist — but as a curious and energetic young person, gently being shown the corners of this place that the locals love: canals, market squares, brown cafés, whilst sampling cones of hot chips dripping in mayonnaise.
Let’s walk it again properly now — with depth, history and context — in true Walks With Grandma style.
📍 Arrival in the North of Holland
Groningen sits near the German border in the northernmost region of the Netherlands. It’s often overlooked by visitors heading only to Amsterdam — but that’s precisely its charm.
It is:
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A medieval trading city
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A university powerhouse
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One of the youngest cities in Europe demographically
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Entirely comfortable on two wheels
Beneath the youthful student energy lies a thousand years of layered history.
🌿 WALK ONE: The Grote Markt & The Heart of Old Groningen
Every good Groningen walk begins in the Grote Markt — the city’s main square since the Middle Ages. Here stands the proud Martinitoren. locally called “d’Olle Grieze” — The Old Grey One.
A Little History
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It was built in the 15th century
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It is 97 metres tall
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it has survived fires, lightning strikes and war
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It is a symbol of the city’s independence
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Climbing the 260+ steps rewards you with sweeping views across flat Dutch countryside
The square itself once hosted:
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Medieval cattle markets
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Public announcements
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Executions
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WWII occupation activity
Today it’s filled with cafés, cyclists, buskers and market stalls. This is where you can:
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Eat traditional Dutch chips with mayonnaise
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Sit with a cool Dutch beer in hand and chill out
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Began to feel the quiet thrill of being in historic old Dutch town.
🍟 Chips, Mayo & Brown Cafés
The Dutch relationship with Chips and mayonnaise is serious business. You can buy them from a traditional snackbar such as:
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De Belg Waterloo (famous for Belgian-style fries)
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Or one of the many Vismarkt kiosks
Chips are:
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Double fried
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Served in a paper cone
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Drenched in creamy mayo (never ketchup first!)
Need a Beer to go with your chips? In Groningen it’s often locally brewed.
Look out for:
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Brouwerij Martinus — a local craft brewery producing traditional Dutch styles
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Drink beer in “real” places such as the brown cafés — with their dark wood interiors, low ceilings, candlelight, and locals talking politics and football.
🌊 WALK TWO: Along the Canals & A-Kwartier
Groningen is laced with canals — all remnants of medieval trade routes. The A-Kwartier district feels older and quieter.
Walk along:
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Hoge der A
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Lage der A
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Noorderhaven
Here you’ll find:
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17th-century warehouses
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Houseboats moored gently along water
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Gabled merchant houses
This is the Groningen of:
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Salt traders
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Grain merchants
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Hanseatic League connections
In the 13th–15th centuries, Groningen was part of the powerful North European trade network. Ships carried goods to Germany, Scandinavia and beyond. When I first walked here at the age of seventeen, feeling slightly windswept from North Sea air, I believed the world had just opened up a little further for me.
🏛 WALK THREE: Culture & Quiet Grandeur
🎓 University of Groningen
University of Groningen was founded in 1614.
This explains the youthful energy of the city today:
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60,000+ students
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International population
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Café culture everywhere
🌸 Prinsentuin (The Prince’s Garden)
A Renaissance-style garden tucked behind old walls with formal hedges, roses, and quiet benches. This place is perfect for reflective walking in nature.
🎨 Groninger Museum
Groninger Museum is bold. With it's modern architecture sitting in the canal like a colourful ship, it contrasts beautifully with the medieval brick buildings surrounding it.
🌍 A City Shaped by Conflict
Groningen has endured:
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The Siege of 1672 (against the Bishop of Münster)
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WWII occupation
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Post-war rebuilding
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Gas extraction earthquakes in the region
Yet it remains resilient, confident, quietly proud.
The Martinitoren survived WWII damage and is a local symbol of endurance.
🛏 Where to Stay
✨ Luxury
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Hotel Prinsenhof - 15th-century monastery setting beside Prinsentuin.
🌿 Boutique / Mid-Range
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The Market Hotel - Modern comfort right on Grote Markt.
💛 Budget / Character
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Stee in Stad - Affordable and central.
🍽 Where to Eat
🍷 Fine Dining
🍲 Local Dutch
🍟 Casual & Iconic
🚶 Suggested Walking Route Outline
Older-walker friendly & gentle pacing
Start: Grote Markt
→ Martinitoren (optional climb)
→ Vismarkt
→ Hoge der A canal walk
→ Noorderhaven
→ Prinsentuin
→ University Academy Building
→ Coffee stop
→ Groninger Museum
→ Return via canal ring
Total walking distance: approx. 4–5 km
Flat terrain
Excellent benches & cafés throughout
💭 Reflections: Seeing more of the World for the first time
There is something special about remembering first journeys.
I didn’t fly.
I crossed water.
I travelled slowly north.
I stayed not in a hotel — but in a home.
I saw the city through the eyes of people who lived there.
I ate what locals ate.
I drank what locals drank.
That makes all the difference.
Returning as an older walker — Groningen STILL feels:
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Safe
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Manageable
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Culturally rich
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Compact
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Deeply atmospheric
It’s a perfect destination for those who:
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Love slow city walking
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Appreciate history without crowds
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Enjoy canals without Amsterdam prices
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Want authentic Dutch life







