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Groningen Walking Guide

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There is something wonderfully romantic about reaching a city slowly. Not by plane — but by train, by ferry, by the rhythm of wheels on track and salt air on deck.

I travelled from London to Harwich, crossed the North Sea, and then went by Dutch rail northwards into the province of Groningen — that long, flat, big-skied stretch of the Netherlands where bicycles outnumber cars and history hides in plain sight.

First Arriving as a 17-year-old, and staying with English expats who knew the city well, I originally experienced Groningen not as a tourist — but as a curious and energetic young person, gently being shown the corners of this place that the locals love: canals, market squares, brown cafés, whilst sampling cones of hot chips dripping in mayonnaise.

Let’s walk it again properly now — with depth, history and context — in true Walks With Grandma style.

📍 Arrival in the North of Holland

Groningen sits near the German border in the northernmost region of the Netherlands. It’s often overlooked by visitors heading only to Amsterdam — but that’s precisely its charm.

It is:

  • A medieval trading city

  • A university powerhouse

  • One of the youngest cities in Europe demographically

  • Entirely comfortable on two wheels

Beneath the youthful student energy lies a thousand years of layered history.

🌿 WALK ONE: The Grote Markt & The Heart of Old Groningen

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Every good Groningen walk begins in the Grote Markt — the city’s main square since the Middle Ages. Here stands the proud Martinitoren. locally called “d’Olle Grieze” — The Old Grey One.

A Little History

  • It was built in the 15th century

  • It is 97 metres tall

  • it has survived fires, lightning strikes and war

  • It is a symbol of the city’s independence

  • Climbing the 260+ steps rewards you with sweeping views across flat Dutch countryside

The square itself once hosted:

  • Medieval cattle markets

  • Public announcements

  • Executions

  • WWII occupation activity

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Today it’s filled with cafés, cyclists, buskers and market stalls. This is where you can:

  • Eat traditional Dutch chips with mayonnaise

  • Sit with a cool Dutch beer in hand and chill out

  • Began to feel the quiet thrill of being in historic old Dutch town. 

🍟 Chips, Mayo & Brown Cafés

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The Dutch relationship with Chips and mayonnaise is serious business. You can buy them from a traditional snackbar such as:

  • De Belg Waterloo (famous for Belgian-style fries)

  • Or one of the many Vismarkt kiosks

Chips are:

  • Double fried

  • Served in a paper cone

  • Drenched in creamy mayo (never ketchup first!)

Need a Beer to go with your chips? In Groningen it’s often locally brewed.

Look out for:

  • Brouwerij Martinus — a local craft brewery producing traditional Dutch styles

  • Drink beer in “real” places such as the brown cafés — with their dark wood interiors, low ceilings, candlelight, and locals talking politics and football.

🌊 WALK TWO: Along the Canals & A-Kwartier

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Groningen is laced with canals — all remnants of medieval trade routes. The A-Kwartier district feels older and quieter.

Walk along:

  • Hoge der A

  • Lage der A

  • Noorderhaven

Here you’ll find:

  • 17th-century warehouses

  • Houseboats moored gently along water

  • Gabled merchant houses

This is the Groningen of:

  • Salt traders

  • Grain merchants

  • Hanseatic League connections

In the 13th–15th centuries, Groningen was part of the powerful North European trade network. Ships carried goods to Germany, Scandinavia and beyond. When I first walked here at the age of seventeen, feeling slightly windswept from North Sea air, I believed the world had just opened up a little further for me.

🏛 WALK THREE: Culture & Quiet Grandeur

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

🎓 University of Groningen

University of Groningen was founded in 1614.

This explains the youthful energy of the city today:

  • 60,000+ students

  • International population

  • Café culture everywhere

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

🌸 Prinsentuin (The Prince’s Garden)

A Renaissance-style garden tucked behind old walls with formal hedges, roses, and quiet benches. This place is perfect for reflective walking in nature.

🎨 Groninger Museum

Groninger Museum is bold. With it's modern architecture sitting in the canal like a colourful ship,  it contrasts beautifully with the medieval brick buildings surrounding it.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

🌍 A City Shaped by Conflict

Groningen has endured:

  • The Siege of 1672 (against the Bishop of Münster)

  • WWII occupation

  • Post-war rebuilding

  • Gas extraction earthquakes in the region

Yet it remains resilient, confident, quietly proud.

The Martinitoren survived WWII damage and is a local symbol of endurance.

🛏 Where to Stay 

✨ Luxury

🌿 Boutique / Mid-Range

💛 Budget / Character

🍽 Where to Eat

🍷 Fine Dining

🍲 Local Dutch

🍟 Casual & Iconic

🚶 Suggested Walking Route Outline

Older-walker friendly & gentle pacing

 

Start: Grote Markt
→ Martinitoren (optional climb)
→ Vismarkt
→ Hoge der A canal walk
→ Noorderhaven
→ Prinsentuin
→ University Academy Building
→ Coffee stop
→ Groninger Museum
→ Return via canal ring

Total walking distance: approx. 4–5 km
Flat terrain
Excellent benches & cafés throughout

💭 Reflections:  Seeing more of the World for the first time

There is something special about remembering first journeys.

I didn’t fly.
I crossed water.
I travelled slowly north.

I stayed not in a hotel — but in a home.
I saw the city through the eyes of people who lived there.
I ate what locals ate.
I drank what locals drank.

That makes all the difference.

Returning as an older walker — Groningen STILL feels:

  • Safe

  • Manageable

  • Culturally rich

  • Compact

  • Deeply atmospheric

It’s a perfect destination for those who:

  • Love slow city walking

  • Appreciate history without crowds

  • Enjoy canals without Amsterdam prices

  • Want authentic Dutch life

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